Formulary Charter
A selection charter among the most demanding on the market
Today, care is no longer defined solely by what it does.
It is also defined by what it is. By what it contains – and especially by what it does not contain.
Behind every formula, there are decisions: to include certain ingredients, to exclude others, to define a philosophy. Choices that are never neutral, as they determine the quality of care as much as the vision and responsibility of the brand that creates it.
At Pômesse Paris, we have made a clear choice: to build one of the strictest blacklists on the market, and a formulation charter designed to clarify our choices. It is not just a simple list of prohibitions: it is a commitment. To create products that are effective, but also safe, transparent, and responsible. It is to affirm a conviction: to work with rigor, to anticipate scientific developments, and to remain clear with those who trust us.
Selection Philosophy
European regulations on cosmetics and dietary supplements are among the strictest in the world. They already prohibit thousands of substances recognized as dangerous. But this is not always enough to address the questions that arise today: some ingredients remain permitted despite doubts about their safety, tolerance, or environmental impact.
Our approach is to go further. We apply a precautionary principle: when an ingredient provokes controversy or raises serious doubt, we prefer to exclude it. Thus, each ingredient is selected according to a dual requirement: respecting health and skin, and respecting the environment.
"Respecting skin health and respecting the environment"
Our Exclusion Criteria
Our charter is not just a technical list: it is a set of clear rules that guide each of our formulas. We have chosen to exclude certain ingredients, even those permitted by law, as they do not meet our safety, tolerance, or responsibility standards.
These ingredients are not necessarily harmful or bad, but we prefer to find alternatives that raise fewer questions.
That is why we have defined broad exclusion criteria that reflect our formulation philosophy.
First, we exclude all substances recognized as toxic or hazardous to health, especially those classified as CMR (carcinogenic, mutagenic, reprotoxic). While European regulation has already banned some, we remain vigilant to scientific developments to go further if necessary.
We are also particularly attentive to the use of endocrine disruptors in all our facial care products, whether proven or suspected. Because they interfere with the hormonal system — which regulates growth, sleep, metabolism, or reproduction — we apply a strict precautionary principle: if in doubt, we choose not to use them.
In our facial care products, we are also vigilant about the use of allergens and sensitizing substances. A formula can never be guaranteed "allergen-free," but we limit as much as possible the use of those already identified as problematic, like certain perfumes or essential oils. Our facial care products are systematically tested on sensitive skin, under dermatological control, to ensure optimal tolerance.
Our choices also concern environmental impact. An ingredient may be safe for the skin but harmful to the planet: low biodegradability, polluting manufacturing processes, etc. In such cases, we prefer wherever possible to abandon them in favor of more responsible alternatives.
Finally, we have decided to exclude animal-derived ingredients from our cosmetic products. In our dietary supplements, one exception exists: marine collagen, chosen for its demonstrated efficacy and controlled origin. In all other cases, we favor plant-based or biotechnology-derived alternatives.
These criteria are not fixed: they evolve with scientific knowledge, regulation, and transparency expectations. It is a commitment that guides each of our formulation decisions and guarantees products that are at once safe, effective, and responsible.
Excluded Ingredients
The types of ingredients we omit in our skincare products
Perfumes
Perfumes, whether natural or synthetic, are among the main factors causing allergic reactions in cosmetics. That's why we made a radical decision: no added fragrance in our facial care products. Our formulations retain the authentic scent of their raw materials, without any excess.
Silicones
Silicones, widely used in cosmetics, provide an immediate smooth and silky effect. However, they offer no lasting benefits to the skin. Derived from petrochemicals and barely biodegradable, they also raise environmental concerns. We have excluded them in favor of natural and active textures.
Acrylates
Acrylic polymers (carbomers, acrylates, crosspolymers…) are used to gelify, stabilize or provide a “second skin” finish. Nevertheless, they are petrochemical-derived microparticles, soluble or insoluble, contributing to environmental pollution. Our care products are free from acrylates; we prefer gelifying and stabilizing agents of natural origin.
Controversial preservatives (parabens, BHA, BHT, MIT/CMIT)
These preservatives have long stabilized and protected formulations, but now they raise serious concerns. Parabens are criticized for their potential impact on the hormonal system, BHA and BHT for toxicological risks, and MIT/CMIT for their strong allergenic potential.
We have chosen to exclude them from our products.
Formaldehyde releasers
Some preservatives gradually release formaldehyde to protect formulations. However, formaldehyde is classified as a known carcinogen and recognized for its strong allergenic potential. We have decided to formulate without formaldehyde releasers, adopting safer and more respectful alternatives.
Phenoxyethanol
Still widely used in cosmetics, phenoxyethanol is increasingly criticized for its tolerance, especially on sensitive skin, pregnant women, and infants. We have decided not to integrate it into our formulations and to prioritize milder and better-tolerated preservatives.
PEG, PPG, and ethoxylated derivatives
Frequently used as texture agents or emulsifiers, PEG and PPG are derived from a manufacturing process that can generate undesirable residues (such as 1,4-dioxane, classified as carcinogenic). Their environmental impact is also debated. We have chosen not to use them.
Sulfates (SLS, SLES)
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) and Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) are very common foaming agents in shower gels, shampoos, and cleansers. They produce abundant foam but are also known to be irritating and drying, especially for sensitive skin. Our formulations are free from aggressive sulfates, preserving skin balance and ensuring optimal softness.
EDTA (chelating agents)
Disodium EDTA, Tetrasodium EDTA, or Trisodium EDTA are chelating agents that stabilize formulations by trapping heavy metals. While they pose no health risk, they present a major environmental issue: non-biodegradable, they persist in water and continue their capturing action. Our care products are formulated without EDTA, thanks to alternatives more environmentally friendly.
Ethanolamines (ETA, MEA, TEA, DEA)
These compounds (such as Triethanolamine, Diethanolamine, or Monoethanolamine) are used in cosmetics to adjust pH, stabilize emulsions, or enhance foam. Under certain conditions, they can form nitrosamines (substances suspected of being carcinogenic) and also present a risk of skin irritation. Our formulations are free from ethanolamines.
Quaternary ammoniums (quats)
Quats are often used for detangling effect or soft touch, sometimes as a replacement for silicones. Petrochemical-derived, poorly biodegradable, and occasionally irritating for skin and eyes, we have chosen not to integrate them into our care products, preferring natural and respectful alternatives.
PFAS (per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances)
PFAS, considered "forever pollutants," are used to make some formulations water-resistant or long-lasting. Their problem: they are non-biodegradable, persist in the environment, and accumulate in living organisms. Banned in cosmetics starting in 2026, our care products are already 100% PFAS-free.
Mineral oils
Still widespread for their film-forming effect, mineral oils are derived from petrochemicals. They offer no active benefits to the skin and raise environmental concerns. We prefer nutrient-rich vegetable oils.
The types of ingredients we exclude from our dietary supplements
Artificial Sweeteners
We do not use any synthetic sweeteners (aspartame, acesulfame-K, saccharin...). When a sweet note is needed, we prefer natural alternatives like stevia.
Artificial Colorants
The color of our products comes solely from their active ingredients. No artificial colorants are added, for simpler and more transparent formulas.
Artificial Flavors
All our flavors are natural. We do not use synthetic flavors, in order to preserve the natural quality and sensory excellence of our supplements.
Animal Gelatin
We do not use gelatin derived from animal exploitation. The only exception is marine collagen, which is a functional active ingredient rather than a texture agent. Its origin is controlled and its presence is based on its proven effectiveness.
